Friday, November 7, 2008

the music - Andéa Ventimiglia

my friend Andréa Ventimiglia wrote this piece on music in jamaica - enjoy.


Many inescapable realities exist in Jamaica; crime, poverty, a burning midday sun, to name a few. But here also, music, glorious, melodious, ubiquitous music is also a constant and integral part of daily life. There is nowhere you can turn without hearing some beat, chorus or refrain. Jamaicans have a tune for everything with lyrics about love, about life, about death. There are songs about selling, songs about telling, even songs about songs. They eat to music, drink to music, pray, work and play to music.

It begins just after dawn with the chirping of the birds. Jamaica has over 300 bird species and as the sun rises, they twitter, squawk, and cock-a-doodle-doo………. “Now wait a minute,” I hear you saying, “that’s not technically music.” Alright, if you insist, then go ahead and rewind the scene. I wake up and pop in a CD, as do the majority of my neighbours. In my community housing block, thin walls and dozens of open windows means I can hear everyone’s stereo as they rise and immediately switch it on. I can smell ackee and saltfish as my neighbours prepare a traditional Jamaican breakfast. Humming along, we all get ready for the coming day.

At the bus terminal, American pop songs float out from the P.A. system and I am surrounded by hundreds of uniformed school children, milling about and singing. Barely old enough to lug their heavy school bags, they passionately croon lyrics of heartache, lust, betrayal. “I remember when my heart broke,” they wail. “It’s too late to apologize, it’s too laaaaaaaate.”

The opinion on this type of popular music is divided. While many Jamaicans are happy to download ringtones from the latest American Top 40, others feel it has no place in Jamaican society. They bristle at the extent to which North American music, retail chains, fast-food and other products have inundated the Jamaican market.

I step off the bus and am nearly forced off the sidewalk by an ear-splitting “HALLELUJAH!” It’s barely 8:30am and giant black speakers are stacked five-high on the corner. They’re well worn, blaring out gospel music each morning (except Fridays when it’s Michael Jackson hits). A man fiddles with knobs on the soundboard set up under a ratty blue tarp. I don’t think it’s possible for the music to get louder but I’m wrong. I nod a familiar hello as I pass this man each day on my way to work. His response is equally invariable, “Mornin’ Darling” he smiles, “Bless.”

The sound of praise follows me up the street. Much of Jamaica is devoutly religious and the diversity of religions is staggering. About 65 per cent of the population is Christian with the five largest denominations being Church of God, Seventh-day Adventist, Baptist, Pentecostal and Anglican. The Back-to-Africa Rastafari movement was also founded here and Bob Marley, Jamaica’s most famous musician, was a convert to that faith. In fact, Jamaicans are fond of telling foreigners that there are more churches and more rum bars here per capita than any other country in the world.

Inside my office, there are two radios playing, set to different stations, ‘Kool 97’ and ‘Irie FM.’ My co-workers act as ‘selectors’, adjusting the volume on each radio louder or softer, depending on which is playing the more ‘vibesy’ song. They do it almost unconsciously; just reaching out to adjust the knob, barely looking up from their work. A popular song comes on. Everyone sings along. No-one is shy or self-conscious about their voice. When I ask about it, they shrug. “Me jus’ feel fi sing” they say. On the surface that means, ‘I just feel like singing’, but their body language suggests something deeper, an inherited sentiment of, “I would rather die than live without music.”

After work I head to the busy downtown junction where the market meets the bus park. It’s cacophony, chaos, discord and harmony at once. Illegal bus conductors shout to attract passengers, while licensed drivers yell for them to clear the road. Vendors hawking wares call out, “Sweet cane! Ripe banana! Fevergrass! Phone card, phone card, phone card!” Horns blare, tires screech, men whistle, women laugh. Underneath it all, there is a soothing reggae beat, sometimes clearly decipherable, sometimes garbled and distant, but always there.

In the evenings there are plenty of options to hear music in a formal or informal setting. At one of the universities or theatres I may catch a performance of Kumina. This is an ancient form of Jamaican music, religion, and dance based on the African tradition of the Congo. Drumming, singing and chanting are meant to call the sprits of the dead so that the ancestors may share their knowledge and provide spiritual assistance. Kumina is the root of rhythm in Jamaica, the fountain from which the rest of it flows.

In cosmopolitan Uptown Kingston, I can join the well-heeled upper class as they sit beside a hotel pool or in a restaurant lounge under the stars. Fairy lights adorn the trees while we bop our heads to light-hearted mento, grooving rocksteady, or smooth jazz. Mento is old Jamaican folk music featuring acoustic instruments like banjo, guitar and bongos. It is similar to Calypso and often tells a funny story. Mento was the precursor of the danceable ska genre, which developed into the slower, laid-back syncopation of rocksteady. This paved the way for the reggae explosion of the seventies. But none of that crosses my mind as I drift along blissfully on the musical current.

If I’m feeling adventurous, I can head downtown, for a ‘session,’ a raw and unadorned street party. The musical star here is ‘dancehall’ a sound that pounds on your pulse and forces the blood through your veins with its throbbing, insistent beat. Each song has associated choreography. Dancers move, the DJ shouts improvised lyrics, and the selector will “pull it up,” starting the song all over again if the crowd reaction is good. To show their appreciation, dancers form a gun with their fingers and raise it to the air in a shooting salute. “Pow! Pow! Pow!” they shout. “Yes mon. Wheel and com’ again ‘pon da replay.”

Often controversial, dancehall is the music of the streets, of the youth. It is not distilled for a wider audience, and its aficionados like it that way. It can either be viewed as offensive, misogynistic and violent, or as a brilliantly realistic and artistic interpretation of ghetto life. You listen and decide.

Time for bed, and as I drift into sleep I can still hear the sounds of a distant party through my open window, along with the hymns of a late-night prayer meeting. Both will go till morning light. And then suddenly it is dawn, the day begins again. And so does the music, like a steady heartbeat, like a never-ending symphony, just another one of Jamaica’s inescapable realities.

Friday, October 31, 2008

brief discourse on the politics


In a recent national newspaper poll, 57% of Jamaicans indicated that crime was the most important social issue in the country. That’s not surprising given that according to the Jamaica Constable Force, 1241 people have been murdered in 2008 this year alone.

According to widespread public opinion, this state of affairs is a result of three decades of fierce political tribalism between the two governmental parties that affects society top to bottom. So, it is with more than a hint of irony that politicians from both sides of Parliament recently have united against crime.

Heightened political tribalism began in the late 1970’s when the United States became uncomfortable with the political leadership in Jamaica. Michael Manley, a charismatic Prime Minister, was a self declared democratic socialist. The country was proudly non-aligned in the Cold war and was evolving into Manley’s dream of becoming a democratic socialist state.

During this time political turf wars did occur, but they were fought with fists and knives. The governing leftist People’s National Party (PNP) controlled the country’s guns. The army and police acted on the PNP’s behalf to maintain ‘order’. The United States was afraid of having a socialist state so close to Cuba and the U.S. So Jimmy Carter’s Administration supported a CIA-sanctioned campaign providing the opposition Jamaica Labour Party (JLP) with guns and additional equipment.

As a result, the 1980 election was nothing short of a blood bath between JLP and PNP. Members of Parliament and opposition candidates supplied their supporters with guns to bring out the vote. Politicians also developed private security entourages that protected them where ever they went. 3000 people are thought to have been murdered during the election period alone.

Many communities of lower social and economic status ended up voting unanimously in favor of one party. The JLP returned to power; and regrettably, ‘The Garrison’ was formed.

According to Martin Henry of Jamaica’s Sunday Gleaner, the garrisons provided two functions for the political leadership:

a) They were the main channel for distributing the scarce benefits from Government. The garrison leaders or ‘Dons’ became the main broker between the members of Parliament and the local communities.




b) The Member of Parliament retained his territorial support, while the dons were able to acquire wealth and local power as well as protection from the law.

Garrisons have evolved into communities that operate outside the law, commonly controlled by a Don who governs with an iron fist. While the vast majority of inner city (or Garrison) residents live around the poverty line, the local Dons have become wealthy men. These communities are designed so that police are unable penetrate them. Many Garrisons are guarded around the clock, keeping out unwanted ‘visitors.’ Often the narrow street into a Garrison is blockaded with tire piles to prevent drive-by shootings.

In the beginning, the Dons relied solely on their political master for guns, protection and ‘contracts,’ but many have grown strong enough to participate independently in the regional drug trade. In the Caribbean, Dons take full advantage of the active exchange between drugs and guns. More recently they have been able to mask themselves in a veil of legitimacy as owners of construction or commercial real estate companies.

The Dons do give back marginally to their communities and fund the odd community event, but usually only in order to demonstrate their control. Over time, their power and independence has increased to the point where the politicians are unable to control them.

Given the innate relationship between the garrisons and crime, it is perhaps less ironic now to see politicians united on the issue of crime and violence prevention. If the politicians were sincere about changing the current reality, they would do more than increase criminal penalties and hiring more police – they would begin the long and costly effort to dismantle the Garrison culture that rules and oppresses inner city communities in Jamaica.

Wednesday, October 22, 2008

David sur le Cello!

Check out a couple of recent videos my brother recorded at the Bachfestival in Austria!

Slow Movement - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H_YBJsGythI

Fast Movement - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1vbfv7bj9TY

Friday, October 10, 2008

around home

update

hey guys,
sorry for the lack of updates as of late - been a rather strange head space, where i haven't be able to bring myself to type non-work related items. strange but true.

since the tropical storm, lots has been going on (gwaan as you'd say in Patoi). Andrea and I heard from a crazy writer about a long lost (possibly ancient) pyramid of sorts in the hills. Naturally, we went looking for it. After a bit of an adventure, we met a farmer, who grew up in the same hills we suspected this thing to be in. he had never heard of a pyramid, but said there was an overgrown slave ruins that brought up the occasional curious character once or twice a decade. we went with him thinking we'd come along this pyramid on the way to these 'slave ruins.'

after an hour and a half of walking through the bush and another half hour of of cutting our way through thick ferns with a machete, we came to the slave ruins. when Winston (the farmer who took us up) was growing up, he lived very close to these ruins. built onto this mysterious structure, were a couple houses on top, an oven on another layer and a water tank. naturally, they thought it to be an old slave house.
(video)
http://s331.photobucket.com/albums/l466/Daneggert/?action=view&current=b4.flv


according to the one book in Jamaica from 1919 that makes mention of it, before having slaves build on it, it was used as a massive pimento bbq! crazy right?! here's an attempt at showing you the wall/levels of the structure (http://s331.photobucket.com/albums/l466/Daneggert/?action=view&current=P9070131.flv)

that said, according to the old drawing of it (thus far, we haven't found anything else like it), it looks just like an Mesopatamian or Mayan Ziggarut. personally, i can't believe the spanish or the british for that matter would build anything that didn't have a function in the production of sugar or spices. that's all they cared about. the site is also located closely between 3 significant indegenous sites of significance.

anyhow, call it what you like (it's a debate here now - the british historians believe it was british, or at worst spanish...the crazy writer and i are hanging onto the believe that it was the indigenous Arawaks that built it), this structure is roughly a quarter mile long, over 30 feet high. according to winston, when it is cleared of the 8 feet of fern which currently covers its surface, you can see cuba from on top!
http://s331.photobucket.com/albums/l466/Daneggert/?action=view&current=b6.flv

regardless of who built it, we already know 200 years of its history and that alone is fascinating. we also know the land is currently leased out to a mining company. we are going to try and get it protected. i invited the Prime Minister to go up and see it, hoping that he could provide the necessary resources/legislation to protect and preserve this jem. for some reason, since he agreed to come up, he and his scheduling assistant have been too busy with some global financial crisis thingy to pay me any mind...boyyee, i tell ya

anyway, we'll try and keep bugging them about it until i'm gone.

with respect to work, the youth mentorship program has stalled this month. this is mainly because the community we're working in is in shambles. we were told ahead of time they were organized and so forth, but after attending a month of community meeting and doing a community wide survey, it appears they are still trying to rebuild after a couple of killings in november 2006. we'll see, we might just proceed without the formal club because it may not be effectively running until 2009. either way, the community is interested...it's just getting around the politics and pride.

the compost centre is coming along well. won't get into the details, but we're ready to make the big proposals to make this thing happen. we are planning on recycling the organic waste from the produce market, composting it in a nearby warehouse, and then producing a quality fertilizer that can be used as a substitute to the imported chemical fertilizer, which controls the entire market. a-o! it's cominglastly, we're on the look for another pyramid. we have gone looking for it is recent weeks, but have been unable to find it. we've found a number of other fascinating artifacts in the process like the first governors house of jamaica (1500's), a perfectly preserve sugar mill, a couple of plantation houses from the 15-17th century (one of them is haunted i tell ya...) and other great houses that are perfectly preserved. amazing!

next thursday, i'll go up again and give it a try...keep ya posted.

anyway, i wish everyone back home a happy thanksgiving and i am truly thankful for my family and friends. i miss you guys and look forward to seeing all of you again in the new year.

Friday, September 19, 2008

written accounts of Gustav

check it out - http://cgi.bowesonline.com/pedro.php?id=22&x=story&xid=417270

Accounts from Tropical Storm Gustav



Monday, August 25, 2008:

In an email from a friend, she warns we might get a little bit rain tomorrow night. I haven’t yet heard about this Gustav character yet. Right now, I my only concern is that it’s dry enough to play soccer tomorrow night.


Tuesday, August 26, 2008:

News stations are preparing the public for Hurricane Gustav. The eye of the Hurricane was supposed to hit the north coast in the evening. Gas stations and grocery stores have huge lineups as customers stock up on emergency goods. For a change, people are talking about something other than the Olympics. Quietly, I am looking forward to the Hurricane, being the naïve foreigner that I am.

Wednesday, August 27, 2008:

The rains start. News travels that Gustav has been downsized from a class one Hurricane to a less intense Tropical Storm (lower wind speed and no eye in the middle of the wind).
The rain stops this afternoon – the mood is almost eerie. Fewer street venders are out and about and the crickets are noticeably silent. The quiet before the storm…people are being sent home from work to prepare.
Everywhere I go, people warn each other to be careful and stay safe. By evening, we are still waiting for Gustav to fully arrive. On the ground level, the wind is non-existent, but in the sky, the clouds are picking up speed. Still no storm.
Thursday, August 29, 2008:

We found out late Wednesday night that the storm had shifted course and is now heading to the south coast – Kingston bound. eek! My house mates ensure we all have emergency plans before heading for work. Just as I arrive at work, the Prime Minister announces on the radio that everyone must stay home from work. The drive home is like rush hour at 10am.
In true Jamaica fashion, the storm arrives late. By evening, Gustav’s winds arrive, gusting up to 115 km/hr. Rain pounds the roof like a mallet. We sit tight, and try following the news as the power flickers on and off. We fill up jugs with water, but already water from the pipe is turning brown from rising levels of groundwater. News arrives that Haiti has suffered 22 deaths already from the storm. A couple of Jamaicans have also died attempting to cross a gully.
At 8pm, one of my housemates is called in to work a shift at Storm Emergency Headquarters. We travel through empty streets that are usually packed with vendors and pedestrians. At times, the streets look more like canals. I think we’d be more efficient on a gondola.

Inside headquarters, water’s dripping from the roof as we crowd around a computer to watch Obama’s historic speech in Denver. A couple phone calls come in from people who are waste deep in water. Despite the odd emergency or road closure, it is surprisingly slow.

Friday, August 29, 2008

It rains hard throughout the night and morning. At 9am, police are in the neighborhood evacuating residents living beside the gully. An 11-year old friend tells me her family stayed behind when parts of their house blew off; they will have to rebuild elsewhere. Despite the gravity of the loss, she seems in good spirits and invites me with a smile to come and see the damage.
One of the neighborhood boys watched two fully intact houses flow by last night. In our neighborhood, water came two feet above the gully, flooding some homes and destroying another house down the road. Parts of a roadway beside the gully have collapsed.
Kingston is lined with gullies, which are designed to drain rain water out of the city. They can be up to 8 metres wide and 3 metres deep. By the time a gully overflows, there’s so much water flowing through that it causes major damage to the squatter settlements right beside it.
My earlier enthusiasm for ‘the storm’ quickly disappears after seeing the damage in the neighborhood. Images resurface in my memory of rural Jamaicans I’ve met weeks earlier, who are still rebuilding from losses incurred during Hurricane Ivan in 2004.
A hurricane moves so rapidly that it comes in contact with a region for 3-4 hours. But, with a tropical storm, they tend to linger. The rain can last for a couple days. In a country where the sewage and drainage systems are underdeveloped, it can cause more severe damage at times than a hurricane. Sustained rains cause landslides in rural areas and flooding in the cities.


Saturday, August 30, 2008

The heat’s returned and the sun’s weight can be felt as soon as you step outside. The morning is quiet, but by mid day, music stereos are bopping again and kids are out’n about playing. Despite some bizarre weather patterns, you can barely tell Gustav paid us a visit yesterday. Jamaicans have not forgot about their epic Olympic performance, but with the storm, it now feels like a lifetime ago.
In Jamaica there are a dozen or so related deaths, but fortunately the vast majority survives the storm. With Gustav, this decade has now experienced more tropical storms than any other decade in recorded history. While these storms may not be a direct result of human induced climate change, they are arguably connected.
Back home a moderate change in climate affects us particularly in rural areas, but the damage is far less severe than regions closer to the equator. Here a minute temperature change can lead to more hurricanes.

Sunday, August 31, 2008

Life is back to normal. Singing can be heard from churches, the grocery stores are bustling and the Sunday Newspaper is on street corners again.

Most Jamaicans don’t seem terribly distraught about the damage. They’re serious about it, but instead of mourning their losses, they have a relaxed and assured outlook that life will go on. In Canada, we could do with a little more of this kind of attitude. The calm always follows the storm.